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More from the Moor

In 1811 the first edition of “Risdon’s Survey of Devon” was updated, possibly by one John Taylor. At the time he was President of the Geological Society and resided on Dartmoor for some years. He also had interests in several Dartmoor mines and  was engaged in several agricultural pursuits. In the book he highlighted how the vast tracts of moorland were thought to be a valuable waste of land usage which therefore should be ‘improved’. 

The Fenfield (Venville) men now use their right of pasturage, chiefly in the summer, and not in the winter, as Risdon states, and when indeed Dartmoor, from its inclement climate, is unfit for the purpose. Immense flocks of sheep are depastured in the Forest from May to October or November, and a considerable number of cattle. Each flock of sheep has a particular range, far from which they seldom stray. These places are cattle “lears”, and the farmers continue this habit in their sheep by sending out the lambs with the ewes, who were reared in the same way. The ancient privileges of the Fenfield tenants are now circumscribed by the enclosures of the Forest (Newtakes), which has taken place since the rage for cultivating the Moor has sprung up. A more desirable undertaking, in a public point of view, could hardly suggest itself; and when the ye surveys such a range of mountains rising out of the trackless morasses, situate in the very centre of the most fertile lands in the kingdom, the mind draws a pleasing picture of what the hand of the improvement may in such a case accomplish.”

This was all well and good unless you were one of those Venville tenants or commoners who were losing much of their precious pasturage to newtake enclosures to the wealthy ‘improvers’. Today many of the Dartmoor graziers and farmers are facing a similar situation except their threat to pasturage comes from the Government and conservation bodies who are attempting to greatly restrict and reduce the numbers of livestock grazing the moor. The author then goes on to highlight the early ‘improvers’ and hints that their early “experiments” were none to successful despite investing large sums of capital. It is also interesting to see that Mr. Bray’s residence of Beardown was called “Bardmont.” I have never come across that name before but Mr. Bray was a great exponent of the Druids and many features of his estate were to do with them. Beardown Hill being but one example as it was known as the “Hill of Bards.”

Somewhat about thirty years since two gentlemen of the neighbourhood, Mr. Gullett and Mr. Bray, formed plans for enclosing and improving part of the Forest. The former built and enclosed Prince Hall, and the latter Bear-down, now known as Bardmont. Some years after Mr. Tyrwhitt, the present Lord Warden of the Stanneries, laid the foundation of his house Torr Royal. Prince Hall was purchased by Mr. Gullett from the late Judge Buller and became his occasional residence; and from these beginnings may be traced what improvement has hitherto taken place. The three last named gentlemen have expended large sums of money in enclosing, planting, and in attempts at cultivation; and if that success has not attended their experiments which such efforts ought to have commanded, they have at least done a good deal, and even failures may point out surer plans for future trails.”

Then we come to the crux of the matter along with some suggestions of how these improvements may be made which today may seem utterly ridiculous and others perfectly sensible if not even before their day.

The winter storms are so severe, that no attempt at winter farming can be made according to the modes usual in this county. The autumn-sown corn, if forward in its growth at the close of the year, has its roots bared, and its stems torn from the ground by the violence of the winds and rain. The want of a sufficient stock of vegetable sustenance and dry forage preclude the keeping of cattle in this inclement season, and the very heavy drifts of snow render at times their very existence hazardous. Young plantations suffer in the same proportion. Many hundred thousand trees have met with an untimely end, which in more congenial climates might, ere now, have covered the county of woods. Under these circumstances, the difficulty of raising upon the spot the stores of manure, by which alone land can be materially improved, renders it necessary to have recourse to such as can be supplied from other places. Lime, owing to the total absence of calcareous matter in the soil, operates in the most powerful and beneficial manner; but the distance from which it must be brought is a prohibition to its profitable use. Under such a complication of unfavourable circumstances, it may probably be asked if these thousands and tens of thousands of acres are irreclaimable; and must they remain, as now, a desert in winter and a sheep-walk in summer. Probably not; and a due consideration of the difficulties may suggest a useful hint towards a better plan of cultivation. The climate might probably be in some degree improved by a general plan of drainage; the bogs, from being sources of cold exhalation, may be absorbing sponges; and it need not here be pointed out how the phenomena of evaporation, and the prevalence of chilling winds relate to each other; at least there is a very reason to suppose that to diminish the evaporating surface, must in such a case be right. The next step to be pursued, would be that of procuring shelter; but from what has been said of planting this seems to attend no small difficulty. The attempts already made, however, seem to have been made upon too large a scale, and with too little preparation. In some spots on Bardmont, Mr. Bray has trees of considerable growth; and similar spots are to be found in many parts of the Moor, where with due culture and such protection as might be given upon a small scale, trees might be raised, and around these as a centre the improvement must gradually radiate; at the same spot must be erected the requisite buildings, of which labourers’ cottages and barns for storing such roots and vegetables as the soil will abundantly furnish, are the most necessary; and with them a large sheltered court, upon the excellent plan of the best straw yards in Norfolk, would afford a secure place for cattle, in which manure might be raised from coarse hay, rushes &c. collected in the summer, while carrots, potatoes, cabbages, turnips, parsnips, and such like provender secured in sufficient quantities in the barns, might furnish the food, To the manure thus raised lime if possible be added, and for this purpose nothing can be suggested equal to a navigation, which should carry this important article into the heart of the Moor. A canal connected with a well-arranged plan of drainage would of all others tend most to fertilise this hitherto unprofitable range of mountains and it is to this object, more than any other that one would wish to attract the attention of the royal owner. Many things are in favour of such a scheme, and it would be fair that the estates on the forest should contribute largely to its execution.”

There is a clear indication that one important factor for improving the land was drainage and one which in later years was achieved in some places. The biggest problem with doing this would have been the labour costs involved. A prime example where successful drainage was achieved are the enclosures which encompass the lands of Dartmoor Prison. Once completed these grounds did produce some successful crops of vegetables and fodder. However, it must be realised that the labour costs for doing this were virtually nil as the convicts were used for doing this. With regards to the importation of lime to the heart of the Moor, there was no question that calcareous land was plentiful on the lower surrounding areas of the moor as can be testified by the quarries and numerous lime kilns that were in existence. Therefore  it was just a matter of getting it to where it was needed. at the time this could only be done by using packhorses to carry pannier loads. In later years the great improvement to the roads allowed waggon loads to be transported which was then superseded by the coming of the railways.  In short, it appears that to achieve the ‘improvements’ the ideal suggestion was to plant small areas of tree shelters amongst which labourers houses (possibly for the ‘poor of London’ to migrate to?), barns, cattle yards, and other ancillary structures would be built. Obviously the construction of a canal network never came to fruition.

A new road has been formed and the old ones repaired. Small enclosures are making near this establishment (Dartmoor prison) and will probably improve more rapidly than the larger ones. The once lonely turnpike road is now enlivened by several houses on its borders, and a new inn near Postbridge offers increased convenience to travellers. The list of improvers is considerably increased, and large portions of land have been latterly enclosed, on which buildings are erecting and works of different king going on. Since the death of Judge Buller, but little less has been done at Prince Hall; Mr. Bray continues his exertions on Bardmont; and Tor Royal has unceasing efforts bestowed on it by the possessor Mr. Tyrwhitt. Adjoining Bardmont, on the east a tract of good land has been enclosed by the Rev. J. Mason; and between this estate and Postbridge, is a considerable quantity of ground banked by Mr. Paterson, on which, however, besides and erection of a house, but little appears to be done. From Postbridge , eastward, and on the north of the turnpike road, Mr. Hullet has commenced operations on a large scale; and on the verge of the Forest, near Okehampton, D. Brown and Mr. Crawford have each undertaken works of the same kind.”

Although at the time Tor Royal was progressing well with innovative improvements with such as growing flax etc it was not until 1847 when the estate became famous for its modern and successful agricultural methods under Mr. George Fowler

About Tim Sandles

Tim Sandles is the founder of Legendary Dartmoor

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