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The Maltern Way
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Of all of the tracks on Dartmoor the oldest is probably the one that
runs from near Holne moorgate in the west to Cockle's Gate in the east.
Today the distance is about 7 miles but it may originally have been a
mile or two longer. What marks this track as being special is that along
its route there are 12 purposefully spaced moorland crosses which would
have acted as waymarkers. The course of the track traverses the
narrowest possible moorland tract and does not entail crossing any
major rivers.
The crosses could suggest a pre-Catholic origin which would date them
and the track prior to the 1500's and may have been a medieval
ecclesiastical reminder for the traveller of their ultimate journey.
They would also possibly provide some re-assurance to the lone pilgrim
of some kind of holy protection whilst on the misty wastes of the moor.
In the 19th century, William Crossing was instrumental in finding,
repairing and re-erecting many of the crosses which stand today thus giving an
insight to their purpose.
The fact that the route avoids any major river crossing could also
provide a clue to its age. It could suggest that travellers were using
this track because there were no bridges built over the major rivers,
i.e. The Dart. The first bridges to span this river were built sometime
between AD1300 and AD1413 which again would point to a medieval origin for
the track.
But where does the name of the track come from? In the 1600's a man
called Richard Stukey was a shareholder in several tin mines amongst
which was one at Wenford. Some of the place-names appertaining to the
limits of the mine included, "Hobbehole by Wenford, Maltern Waie above
Wenford and Lower Maltern Waie." Wenford is the old place-name for the
modern Venford which is near to where the track starts and could just
possibly suggest that the name of the track was the Maltern Way. Some
think that the name has associations with Barley and could indicate that
the 'way' was used for carrying barley seed or by-products?
Letterbox stamp for the Maltern Way
The Maltern Way makes for an excellent walk that encompasses many of the
historic features of Dartmoor and if done on a fine day allows one to
appreciate exactly how beneficial the crosses would have been to a
traveller in times gone by. Nobody can be certain that the crosses were
re-erected in their original places but today from most of them you can
see the previous and next ones along the track. The map below shows the
route of the Maltern Way and each of the blue dots represent a cross
which when the hotspot is clicked will show a picture of it - (opens in
new window).
Probably the easiest way to walk the track is to leave a car at each
end, this will give a walk of about seven miles. The alternative is
to walk the track in both directions which will entail about 14
miles. My favourite way is to park at the small car park marked on
the OS map as 'The Shanty' (grid reference SX 69765 69965) and then
head in a north-westerly direction towards Venford reservoir.
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Depending on how high the bracken is the first point on the track is
the remains of a medieval settlement at SX 68070 70550. It is
thought that originally this is where the traveller would have left
the enclosed lands by a moorgate. Nearby are two hawthorn trees that
are supposed to mark the site of a now missing cross known as 'Two
Thorns Cross' and a possible cross base is in-situ lending some
credence to the theory. |
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From Two Thorns Cross it is possible to see the first remaining
cross on the walk on the skyline to the north-west, this is 'Horn's
Cross' or 'Stacombe Telling Place'. The latter name derives from the
fact that at one time a farmer from nearby Staddicombe used to
pasture his sheep with a moorman for the southern quarter of
Dartmoor and it was at the cross that the sheep would be gathered
for counting or 'telling' as it was called on the moor. (grid
reference SX 66940 71090) |
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From Horns Cross the next port of call is 'Horse Ford Cross' which
lies close to the old Hooten Wheals mine track. This cross was
restored by William Crossing after being found by a farm worker on
nearby Down Ridge, later restoration work was carried out in 1972
after further damage which was probably caused by animals. (grid
reference SX 66008 71355) |
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The next cross in the line is 'Skir Ford Cross' and this lies about
a quarter of a mile to the west of Horse Ford Cross. The restoration
and re-erection of this cross was carried out in 1885 by William
Crossing who clamped the two bits of the original together with iron
bars. (grid reference SX 65533 71418) |
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The track now swings in a south-westerly direction and climbs up
onto Ter Hill which at a little over 1,500 feet is the highest point
of the Maltern Way. On Ter Hill are two crosses known as the
'Terrill Posts' and they stand about 100 yards apart. The westerly
of the two crosses is in fact a replica of the original one and was
erected on the 21st of June, 1994. It is dedicated to Tom Gant, a
well known Dartmoor enthusiast and author, as a nearby plaque will
testify. The original cross can be found in the garden of the High
Moorland Visitor centre at Princetown where it was moved to for its
own protection. (grid references SX 64220 70700 and 64135 70635) |
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From the Terrill Posts the way dips down to the next cross which is
about a third of a mile to the west and is known as 'Mount Misery
Cross'. Personally, this is my favourite of all the Dartmoor
crosses, as it stands silently looking over the deserted farm below.
Its enigmatic name is thought to be a field or enclosure name which
alludes to the hard work that went into clearing the granite rocks
and boulders. This cross was re-erected in 1885 by the instigation
of William Crossing. (grid reference SX 63650 70590) |
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From Mount Misery the way now descends to the edge of
Fox tor mires and
Childe's Tomb, upon which stands the
next cross. (grid reference SX 62570 70290) |
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The next cross is about half a mile to the west and is known as
'Goldsmith's Cross'. The shattered remains of the cross were found
by Lt. Malcolm Goldsmith R.N. in AD1903 and repaired and re-erected,
henceforth bearing his name. (grid reference SX 61805 70318) |
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Marked on the OS map is another cross about half a mile to the south
of Goldsmith's Cross. Although this is strictly nothing to do with
the Maltern Way it is a shame not to visit it. The stone, for that's
what it is, is called 'The Headless Cross' or 'Whealam Bottom Cross'
and is a simple granite pillar with an inscribed cross on its
north-western face. It is thought that the stone is an old boundary
marker for the southern and western quarters of the
Forest of Dartmoor. (grid reference SX
61395 69505) |
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Whilst on the subject of unrelated crosses, about 200 yards south of
the Whealam Cross is or was depending on if its been stolen, is what
is purported to be the smallest cross on Dartmoor. It is known as
the 'Hand Hill Cross' or 'Northmore's Cross'. This tiny metal cross
was made by a moor farmer called Bill Northmore from the propeller
shaft of an old ship and was erected in 1980 in appreciation of
Dartmoor. (grid reference SX 61328 69318) |
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A mile to the west lies 'Siward's' or 'Nun's Cross' which is
probably one of the more noted of Dartmoor's crosses. It is thought
that the cross dates to Saxon times and was certainly mentioned as
boundary mark called 'Crucem Sywardii' in the
perambulation of AD1240. On the
eastern face of the cross the word 'SYWARD' is inscribed and may
refer to man called Siward who prior to AD1066 owned estates at
Willsworthy and Peter Tavy . The words BOC/LAND are inscribed on the
western face and refers to 'book land' or lands held by charter.
This in turn could be associated with Buckland Abbey, which as it
was founded in 1278 would give another date for both cross and
track. The alternative name of 'Nun's Cross' is thought to have
derived from the Cornish word 'nans' meaning valley. (grid
reference SX 60165 69918) |
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From Nun's Cross the track headed westwards to the next cross which
is about 300 yards away. Today, the easiest way to get to this cross
is by following the leat which will lead to 'Hutchinson's Cross'.
This modern cross is thought to sit in a socket cut into a boulder
which predates to a much earlier time. It was erected in 1968 by Lt.
Commander B. Hutchinson, R.N. as a memorial to his mother and is
inscribed "S.L.H. 1887 - 1966. (grid reference SX 59913 69920) |
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The route now heads in a north-westerly direction to the next
visible cross which is 'Newleycombe Cross'. This is situated amongst
old tinners workings and was re-erected in 1915 by the Reverend Hugh
Breton. (grid reference SX 59167 70290) |
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The last cross on the original route is 'Crazywell' or 'Classenwell
Cross' which stands to the east of
Crazywell Pool. Again, Hugh Breton re-erected this cross in 1915
and only the head and arms are original. (grid reference SX 58380
70388) |
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From Crazywell Cross the Maltern Way then heads in a
west-north-westerly direction to a large, obvious boulder that is
about 270 yards away. From here the track would have entered Raddick
Lane and enclosed land. Today the lane leads down through the
Raddick Plantation to Leather tor bridge and Norsworthy Bridge which
is where you can leave your second car if you are not intending to
retrace your route back to Venford. (grid reference SX 56882 69298) |
Reading List:
Crossing, W. 1987 The Ancient Stone Crosses of
Dartmoor, Devon Books, Exeter
Greeves, T 1998 The Maltern Way, Dartmoor
Magazine No.51, Quay Pub. Brixham
Harrison, B. 2001 Dartmoor Stone Crosses,
Devon Books & Halsgrove Pub., Tiverton
Hemery, E. 1983 High Dartmoor, Hale, London
Sandles, T. 1997 A Pilgrimage to Dartmoor's
Crosses, Forest Pub., Liverton
Starkey, F. H. 1989 Dartmoor Crosses,
Starkey, Exeter.
15/11/2007
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